Alleys
They say evil travels in straight lines. Maybe that's why there are so many alleys and turns in Chinatown. The most interesting are Waverly Place, Spofford Alley and Ross Alley. All three are parallel to Grant, between Grant & Stockton.
Waverly Place is often called the street of the painted balconies. It runs between Sacramento and Washington. This is an excellent place for photos. If the light isn抰 good for general photos, focus on details. Walk down the east side of the street (toward the bay) and look across the street at the elaborate row on the west side.
This isn't a place built for tourists - people live (and die) here. On this two block long street, there are two funeral businesses, a dry cleaners, a travel agency, an employment agency and a temple. Amy Tan's fans may remember the name Waverly from Joy Luck Club.
Tien Hou Temple: 125 Waverly Place. If it抯 open go up and see it. The smell of incense in the temples is one of the sensory treats of Chinatown.
Spofford Alley is home to many Chinese Associations and social clubs. Spofford runs between Clay & Washington. It feels mysterious, and people are only glimpsed through open doorways. Listen for the clacking sound of shuffling Mah Jong tiles.
Ross Alley runs between Washington and Jackson. Pay attention to the addresses. The fortune cookie factory is 56 Ross, next door is 24 Ross, a small garment factory and the other side of it is 32 Ross, a one chair barber shop and part time radio repair shop. The early Chinese thought some numbers are lucky and others aren抰. If they didn抰 like their address, they just changed it. Pity the poor mailman!
Golden Gate Fortune Cookie Factory: 56 Ross Alley. This place is not exactly what you might expect of a factory. Go in and they will give about 30 seconds to look before they try to sell you something. Buy it. Even if you don抰 like the cookies, consider it an entertainment fee. The machines are fascinating. Some people complain of rudeness here but I think it's amusing. Don't say I didn't warn you.
Stockton Street is where the Chinese markets are. They can be quite intimidating, with strange fruits and vegetables in heaps and crowds of Chinese women doing their shopping. Don't let it intimidate you. Just plunge in and wander through the store. The smells are exotic and many items unidentifiable, but it's fun anyway.
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